Treasure in the Sky
The first is crisp, agile, pétillant and purposefully minerallic. Balanced, it has a hint of sun-scorched straw on the nose and wheat paste during the long, jet trail in the sky finish.
It is not clear whether the latter is actually produced, or simply endorsed by the sociable Peppe Zullo (pictured, top) the 'best known chef' in Italy's heel. He certainly appeared proud to present it over lunch.
In appearance, dense, with a core suggesting sunlight on terracotta tiles, and daddy longlegs of alcohol. On the nose, capsicum, then a warm, moist pudding of semi-sweet chocolate, blackcurrant and briar, and finally a hint of game. Palatable, with well-groomed, closely-knit, tasty tannins. It is 90p/c Tuccanese (Sangiovese?) with the remainder being the curiously dusty tasting, very heat resistant Nero di Troia with a Merlot backbone.


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